HOW DRIES MILLARD SURFS WITH 18% BODY FUNCTION

07/03/16

How Dries Millard surfs with 18% body function

When he was 18 years old Dries Millard was involved in a car accident that left him with 18% body function only.

So he started surfing... (read the full story here).

But how? You ask. Millar explains:

The board:
This a unique nine-foot longboard with double stringers built by South Coast Surfboards (the only company who does these). It is equipped with a wavejet 'engine' system. It is made out of silk, hemp and bio resin so is as Eco-friendly as a surfboard gets. It's features handlebars at the top and sunken hand holds on the side. It also has grip across the entire board to stabilise my body and stop it from sliding off.

The fins:
The fins are a four-fin 'quad fin setup designed by Thys Strydom from Rebel surfboards in J-Bay.  It’s about a third of the way up the board to help with sharp turns because I can’t pump like stand-up surfers and unlike bodyboarders, I don’t have fins to kick around. 

Favourite surf spot:
'Braaivleis,' a secret spot on the West Coast. It's a rocky point break with a nice rip that sucks you back out - if you bail, you just wash up on the kelp. Also, there isn't too not much sand, like most surfers, I hate sand...Ironic I know, but it gets in your wetsuit and, and...

The paddle-out:
Really depends on the spot. If it's rocky I’ll drag my bum over the rocks. With sand I just drag myself over the sand. I also have a beach wheel chair if it's a long beach to cross and the get someone to carry the board to the shore break.

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